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Rediscovering Diego Rivera

man-at-the-crossroads

Diego Rivera is one of Mexico’s most treasured artists.

Famous for his frescoes across Mexico, as well as murals in San Francisco, New York, and beyond, the name is often synonymous with Mexican art, along with the work of his wife, Frida Kahlo. A walk through various areas of Mexico is like taking a walk through Rivera’s history, from Casa Azul to Estudio Diego Rivera to his many murals that adorn the walls of markets, museums, and more.

On a weekend in Mexico City, you can discover Rivera throughout the city from City Center to San Angel to Coyoacan.

Start at the Palacio de Bellas Artes in City Center, just a short walk from the Zocalo. The inside of the Palacio is covered in murals from some of Mexico’s best: Tamayo, Orozco, and of course, Rivera himself. The one here is entitled “Man, Controller of the Universe.” The mural in itself is a recreation of the original, “Man at the Crossroads” made for Rockefeller Center in New York City. It was incredibly controversial in 1934 because it depicted various elements of modern cultural constructs, including captains of industry and Lenin. When Rivera refused to remove Lenin from the painting, it was condemned as anti-capitalist, and destroyed. Suspecting this might happen, Rivera had his assistant take photographs of the mural, and repainted it in the form that lives on as the Palacio. There are just a few marked differences, including John D. Rockefeller, Jr. now depicted, drinking with a woman while a dish of syphilis bacteria is seen above their heads.

casaazul

You can head over now to Coyoacan, where you can find Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. Frida lived here most of her life, and for a short time with Rivera. Many argue that the two artists were each other’s greatest influences, and surely an insight into one is an insight into both of their work. Walk through the house and the scenic grounds, and you can enjoy a photo opportunity as Diego and Frida themselves.

A short three miles away is Museo Anahuacalli, which is Diego’s home, and now museum of his works. It’s an incredible collection of pre-Hispanic work that he acquired throughout his lifetime, with the intention of one day creating a museum that could serve as a testament to Mexican heritage. The house itself is a marvel to see, taking on the shake of a teocalli pyramid, reflecting the Teotihuacan civilization, with other native influences throughout.

estudio

From here, head to the Museo Estudio Diego y Frida, the compound that houses the studios in which Diego and Frida worked and created some of their most memorable pieces. Lined with cacti, you can walk into each of the two properties and be immediately transported into the minds of the artists. While these properties are not filled with murals typical of Diego, they are lined with so many pieces that undoubtedly inspired the artist to create his works. Best yet, if you can’t make it down to see the studio, you can always take a virtual tour here.

Before you call it a day, head to Carcamo de Dolores in Chapultepec Park, where you can find a huge mural by Rivera entitled “Water, Source of Life.” Previously an underwater mural, the painting was extracted and restored, so as not to let the colors erode over time. And you can spend some time exploring Chapultepec at large, including the beautiful castle and various museums housed within.

That’s a starting guide to Diego’s murals, which also are housed in the likes of MUNAL, Museo Dolores Olmedo, and beyond. Happy hunting.